593 


OAKLY 


EXPEDITION  TO  OREGON 


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The  Oregon  Elxpedition 

of 
Obadiah  Oakly 


Expedition  to  Oregon 


Obadiah  Oakly 


Reprinted  from  the  Peoria  Register 
New  York.  1914 


u.  c. 

IkDEMY   OF 
IFIC  COAST 
^IST©RY 


(From  the  Peoria  Register.) 

The  Oregon  Expedition 

Mr.  Obadiah  Oakley,  one  of  the  party  who  left  Peoria  in 
May  for  Oregon,  returned  home  on  Sunday  last,  having  sepa- 
rated from  his  companions  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  From 
a  conversation  with  him  we  have  gathered  the  following  out- 
line of  his  journey  and  adventures. 

The  company,  it  will  be  remembered,  consisted,  on  leaving 
Peoria,  of  15  members.  At  Quincy  they  were  joined  by  an- 
other; all  of  whom  reached  Independence,  Mo.,  the  2Qth  of 
May,  20  days  after  leaving  Peoria.  We  presented  in  July  a 
letter  from  Mr.  Famham,  the  commander  of  the  party,  written 
about  this  time,  and  another  from  Mr.  Smith,  one  of  the  com- 
pany. The  narrative  now  given  will  commence  where  the  other 
left  off. 

At  Independence,  two  more  joined  the  company,  one  of 
whom,  Mr.  Shortess,  had  been  once  before  to  the  Mountains, 
and  now  offered  to  act  as  guide.  He  was  about  45  years  of 
age,  and  soon  proved  himself  to  be  of  a  reckless  and  unprin- 
cipled character.  The  other  was  a  young  man  named  Pritch- 
ard,  recently  from  one  of  the  eastern  states.  Before  leaving 
Independence  they  exchanged  their  wagon  and  some  of  their 
horses  for  other  horses  and  pack  mules.  Where  these  are  pur- 
chased the  prices  are  from  60  to  65  dollars.  They  bought  also 
a  quantity  of  articles,  such  as  knives,  lead,  vermillion,  and  a 
few  trinkets,  with  which  to  trade  with  the  Indians.  One  mule, 
which  belonged  to  the  party  in  common,  carried  their  tent,  two 
kegs  of  powder,  and  a  few  other  articles.  The  other  mules,  of 
which  each  member,  for  the  most  part,  owned  one,  carried  the 
provisions,  clothing  and  other  property  of  each.  The  provis- 
ions amounted  to  200  lbs.  of  flour  and  150  lbs.  of  bacon,  be- 


OAiCLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


sides  sugar,  coffee,  tea,  and  minor  groceries.  Upon  their 
riding  horses  they  carried  their  rifles,  blankets,  and  some  extra 
clothing. 

Thus  mounted  and  provisioned,  the  company,  18  in  num- 
ber, left  Independence  the  29th  of  May,  on  the  Sante  Fe  road, 
which  is  a  distinct  wagon  track.  The  first  adventure  they  met 
with  was  the  loss  of  two  horses  the  following  night,  while  they 
were  encamped  five  miles  from  Independence.  The  owners  re- 
turned to  that  town  the  next  day,  and  recovered  them,  though 
this  ill  luck  was  but  the  precursor  of  worse  that  was  to  follow, 
as  will  appear  in  the  sequel. 

Ten  miles  further,  and  15  from  Independence,  brought  them 
to  the  western  boundary  line  of  Missouri,  where  Mr.  Fitzhugh 
resides  in  a  log  cabin,  and  tliis  was  the  last  house  they  saw 
until  they  reached  some  of  the  posts  of  the  American  Fur 
Company. 

A  day  or  two  afterwards,  when  they  had  reached  Elm 
Grove,  40  miles  from  Independence,  and  had  there  encamped 
for  the  night,  they  discovered  that  two  other  horses  were  miss- 
ing. As  they  had  doubtless  returned  to  Independence,  the 
owners  started  in  pursuit,  while  the  remainder  of  the  company, 
after  halting  a  day  at  the  grove,  continued  on  leisurely,  so  that 
the  absentees  might  sooner  overtake  them.  This  they  did,  with 
the  recovered  horses,  about  a  day  and  a  half  afterwards,  and 
the  company  met  with  no  further  delays  from  this  source. 
Their  practice  at  night,  after  unlading  the  horses,  was  to  stake 
them  in  the  prairie,  i.  e.,  to  drive  notched  stakes  into  the 
ground,  to  which  they  would  fix  one  end  of  the  halter,  giving 
the  animals  sufficient  play  to  enable  them  to  feed  in  abundance. 
The  ground  thus  far  had  been  soft  and  mellow,  so  that  the 
stakes  were  easily  drawn  by  the  horses;  but  afterwards  had 
become  harder  and  firmer,  so  as  effectually  to  secure  them. 

At  the  Osage  river,  about  100  miles  from  Independence, 
they  were  agreeably  surprised  at  meeting  a  returning  party 
who  had  passed  along  a  few  days  before  them  to  assist  Capt. 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


Kelly's  Santa  Fe  company,  bound  to  the  latter  place,  over  the 
worst  part  of  the  road,  it  consisted  of  seven  wagons,  with  a 
proportionate  number  of  men.  They  had  assisted  the  company 
to  Council  Grove,  50  miles  beyond,  and  were  now  on  their 
return.  Though  our  adventurers  had  been  but  a  week  from 
Independence,  during  which  they  had  not  seen  a  human  being, 
the  sight  of  a  fellow  countryman  now  kindled  the  feelings  of 
the  warmest  sympathy  in  their  hearts,  and  three  of  them 
resolved  at  once  to  return.  They  were  Grin  Garrett  and  Wm. 
Picket  of  Peoria,  and  young  Moore  of  Quincy.  Here  also 
two  Caw  Indians,  the  first  of  any  tribe  they  had  seen,  came  to 
the  camp,  and  received  from  the  party  some  trifling  presents. 
On  the  next  day  they  saw  30  or  40  of  the  same  tribe,  all  of 
whom  were  very  peaceable.  They  were  returning  from  a  hunt- 
ing excursion,  and  were  entirely  ignorant  of  our  language. 

The  Osage  river  is  here  about  30  yards  wide,  and  about 
knee  deep.  It  was  consequently  forded  with  ease  and  safety, 
and  on  returning,  Mr.  Oakley  found  it  nearly  dry.  The  face 
of  the  country  thus  far  was  a  rolling  prairie,  with  no  timber 
save  a  very  few  small  groves  at  a  distance  from  the  road  on 
the  right  and  left.  Two  or  three  inconsiderable  streams  had 
been  crossed,  but  they  also  were  for  the  most  part  destitute  of 
timber. 

Parting  with  the  Santa  Fe  escort  next  day,  the  party  con- 
tinued on  to  Council  Grove,  50  miles  further,  which  they  had 
reached  on  the  9th  of  June,  10  days  from  Independence.  The 
distance  is  150  miles.  They  had  consequently  traveled,  includ- 
ing stoppages,  15  miles  a  day.  Here  they  rested  a  day  to  re- 
pair their  pack  saddles,  and  other  damages. 

On  the  12th,  while  pursuing  their  journey,  they  were  over- 
taken by  a  tremendous  storm,  more  awful  than  anything  they 
had  ever  before  seen  or  read  of.  The  thunder  was  petrifying 
and  the  lightning  appalling  beyond  description.  How  they 
escaped  with  their  lives  seemed  a  miracle.  Mr.  Oakley's  gun, 
which  he  held  in  his  hand,  was  struck  from  him,  and  he  nearly 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


thrown  from  his  horse.  The  others  were  more  or  less  affected 
by  the  subtle  element.  Mr.  Oakley  thinks  more  rain  fell  in 
fifteen  minutes  than  he  had  ever  known  to  fall  here  in  the  se- 
verest storm  during  a  day.  The  effect  of  this  deluge  in  swell- 
ing the  streams  which  the  party  had  to  cross,  will  be  seen 
hereafter. 

The  same  evening  they  overtook  Capt.  Kelley's  company, 
bound  for  Santa  Fe,  to  which  reference  has  already  been  had. 
It  numbered  14  wagons  and  29  men.  With  them  our  adven- 
turers were  invited  to  camp  for  the  night,  an  offer  which  they 
gladly  accepted,  as  they  had  no  wood,  nor  was  a  tree  to  be 
seen.  The  wagons,  however,  were  plentifully  supplied,  hav- 
ing brought  it  with  them.  No  water  was  to  be  had  save  that 
which  had  fallen  a  few  hours  before,  wliich  they  scooped  up 
from  pools  in  the  prairie. 

By  this  time  the  provisions  obtained  at  Independence  were 
nearly  exhausted,  and  they  had  met  with  no  game  to  shoot. 
It  became,  therefore,  necessary  that  the  party  should  divide, 
by  choosing  hunters  to  go  ahead  and  procure  a  supply. 
Messrs.  Oakley,  Shortess,  Jordan  and  Fletcher,  were  chosen 
accordingly,  and  they  set  out  on  the  following  morning.  As 
this  portion  of  his  story  most  abounds  in  incident,  we  shall 
give  in  brief  each  day's  progress. 

June  13.  The  four  hunters,  leaving  with  the  main  party 
all  the  provisions,  set  out,  themselves  destitute,  in  search  of 
game.  They  soon  saw  some  elk,  two  of  which  they  wounded, 
but  they  afterwards  escaped.  At  4  in  the  afternoon,  when 
within  8  miles  of  Little  Arkansas  river,  they  met  a  trading 
company,  consisting  of  30  odd  men,  and  10  wagons,  loaded 
with  peltries  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  under  the  command 
of  Mr.  Bent,  who  resides  at  Bent's  fort,  on  the  Arkansas  river. 
With  it  were  also  ^0  sheep,  bound  for  a  lower  market.  By  this 
company  the  hunters  were  kindly  treated  and  feasted  for  the 
night.  Capt.  Bent  informed  them  that  he  had  lost  from  his 
caravan  since  he  left  home,  30  mules  and  7  horses,  which  had 


6 


OAKLVS  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


strayed  away,  and  requested  if  they  found  them,  to  take  them 
in  charge  and  leave  them  at  his  fort  as  they  passed  it.  He 
also  said  they  would  find  plenty  of  buffalo  meat  the  next  day  at 
Cow  creek.  To-night  another  rain  visited  the  company,  but 
little  less  severe  than  that  already  spoken  of. 

14.  Separating  from  the  company  just  mentioned,  the 
hunters  continued  on,  and  in  8  miles  reached  the  Little  Arkan- 
sas. Though  about  such  a  stream  as  the  Osage,  between  30 
and  40  yards  wide,  it  was  now  prodigiously  swollen,  being  at 
least  15  feet  deep,  and  running  with  great  velocity.  As  it  was 
impracticable  to  cross  it,  the  hunters  planted  themselves  leis- 
urely upon  its  bank,  took  out  their  fishing  Hues,  and  com- 
menced fishing.  In  a  little  while  they  caught  12  catfish, 
"fat  yellow  fellows," — who  proved  to  be  of  excellent  flavor. 
They  made  a  fire  on  the  spot,  and  proceeded  to  roast  one  on 
the  coals,  and  though  they  had  no  seasoning,  the  meal  was  a 
very  grateful  one.  While  thus  engaged,  three  men  of  Capt. 
Bent's  company,  who  had  been  left  behind  to  hunt  for  the 
stray  mules  and  horses,  appeared  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  after  an  unsuccessful  search.  As  they  were  destitute  of 
food,  and  the  surest  resource  lay  in  overtaking  the  company 
they  had  left,  the  river  was  to  them  a  feeble  obstacle.  Imme- 
diately on  reaching  it,  they  drove  in  their  horses,  who  swam 
directly  across,  then  stripped  themselves  and  followed  their 
example !  One  of  them,  a  Spaniard,  whom  familiarity  with 
the  water  had  rendered  half  amphibious,  took  the  saddle  from 
his  horse  and  held  it  in  one  hand,  while  he  swam  across  with 
the  other.  They  had  eat  nothing  for  three  days.  Another  fish 
was  consequently  laid  on  the  coals  and  speedily  devoured. 
After  spending  the  night  together,  the  hunters  sent  by  the 
strangers  some  fish  to  Capt.  Bent,  and  after  leaving  three  of 
the  largest  in  the  water  for  their  comrades,  when  they  came 
up,  and  to  which  their  attention  was  directed  by  a  signal,  they 
prepared  to  cross  the  river. 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


15.  The  passage  across  the  river  was  effected  in  this  way: 
— the  halters  were  taken  from  the  horses  and  tied  into  a  line, 
which  was  found  to  be  in  length  double  the  width  of  the  river. 
The  horses  were  then  driven  across;  after  which  two  of  the 
men  swam  over,  carrying  one  end  of  the  line  with  them.  Those 
who  remained  tied  the  luggage  in  a  bundle  to  the  rope  on  the 
edge  of  the  shore,  then  holding  the  rope  behind  the  bundle,  and 
letting  it  slip  through  their  hands  as  those  on  the  opposite 
side  pulled,  both  parties  keeping  the  rope  so  well  stretched  as 
to  hold  it  above  the  water,  the  bundle  was  conveyed  safely 
over.  The  next  minute  the  two  remaining  men  were  over  and 
all  soon  under  way  again.  During  this  day  five  other  streams 
were  swam  and  waded.  Nothing  escaped  being  thoroughly 
drenched  except  the  powder,  which  was  carried  in  small  canis- 
ters high  on  the  body.  The  musketoes  were  "dreadful." 
Camped  at  night  on  Big  Cow  creek,  where  Capt.  Bent  had  said 
they  would  find  buffalo,  though  they  did  not. 

16.  As  a  supply  of  meat  became  more  and  more  desirable, 
the  hunters  determined  to  leave  their  baggage  at  the  spot 
where  they  had  camped,  and  go  forth  unencumbered  in  pur- 
suit of  buffalo.  After  riding  seven  miles  and  finding  none,  it  was 
arranged  that  two  should  go  back  for  the  baggage,  and  take 
it  on  to  a  point  named, — Walnut  creek  grove, — while  the  other 
two  should  sweep  the  country,  and  meet  the  others  at  sundown. 
Oakley  and  Jordan  went  back  for  the  baggage,  and  Shortess 
and  Fletcher  continued  the  hunt.  As  the  former,  in  prose- 
cuting their  journey,  approached  the  grove  about  sundown, 
Jordan  said  he  saw  the  ghsten  of  a  gun  barrel,  and  that  there 
must  be  Indians.  They  stopped  to  consult,  when  Jordan  was 
for  returning;  but  Oakley  said  that  would  be  useless,  as  the 
Indians,  if  such,  must  have  seen  them  first,  and  would  speedily 
overtake  them.  He  was  therefore  for  going  boldly  forward 
and  meeting  the  worst.  As  the}'  advanced  they  saw  oxen,  and 
soon  discovered  the  party  to  be  a  company  of  traders.  They 
were  bound  for  Santa  Fe,  and  numbered  93  men  and  53  wagons. 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


Our  adventurers  met  with  a  severe  reprimand  from  them  for 
traveUng  in  the  exposed  manner  they  did,  subject  to  be  met 
almost  hourly  by  Indians,  who  would  prove  hostile  or  friendly, 
just  as  their  inclination  or  their  wants  might  prompt  them. 
After  dark,  Shortess  and  Fletcher  arrived,  without  having 
killed  anything.  The  four  had  been  three  days  with  but  one 
meal  of  catfish  to  eat.  With  the  Santa  Fe  company,  however, 
they  once  more  fared  sumptuously.  They  here  discovered  the 
reason  why  they  had  found  no  buffalo  on  and  around  Big 
Cow  creek,  as  Capt.  Bent  had  told  them  they  w^ould.  The  Caw 
Indians,  who  hovered  around  and  in  front  of  the  company,  had 
driven  them  off,  that  they  might  enhance  their  value,  and  by 
killing  them  themselves,  sell  the  meat  at  a  good  price  to  the 
traders. 

17,  Traveled  along  with  the  Santa  Fe  company  and  pro- 
ceeded only  8  miles.  They  saw  no  game  during  the  day  save 
one  hare,  which  they  shot  at  and  wounded.  Camped  to-night 
on  a  prairie  without  wood. 

18.  The  four  hunters,  being  somewhat  in  advance  of  the 
company,  saw  seven  buffalo  bulls  and  gave  chase.  They  were 
seen  by  the  company  about  the  same  time,  and  some  of  their 
best  men  started  also  in  pursuit;  but  Jordan  and  Fletcher, 
having  the  best  horses,  kept  ahead.  The  bulls,  as  the  pursuit 
continued,  separated,  and  fled  in  different  directions ;  but  one 
was  run  down  after  a  chase  of  2%  miles  by  the  two  hunters 
named,  and  easily  killed.  He  weighed  about  900  lbs.  After 
taking  the  fleece,  i.  e.  the  most  fleshy  parts,  weighing  about  300 
lbs.,  and  leaving  the  carcass,  thej^  loaded  their  horses  and  re- 
turned to  the  company.  This  was  the  first  buffalo  they  had 
killed,  and  they  found  the  meat  superior  in  flavor  to  any  they 
had  ever  eaten.  The  bulls  are  far  before  our  domestic  cattle, 
and  the  cow^s,  as  they  afterwards  proved,  as  much  excel  them 
as  the  meat  of  a  tame  heifer  exceeds  that  of  the  male  in  our 
markets.  The  flesh  now  obtained  the  "jerked,"  and  it  lasted 
5  or  6  days. 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


19.  Two  of  the  hunters  went  back  with  a  portion  of  the 
buffalo  to  meet  their  comrades,  from  whom  they  had  now  been 
separated  6  days.  They  found  them  8  miles  back,  with  nothing 
to  eat,  having  in  this  interval  killed  but  one  antelope.  They 
had  found  the  fish  also,  and  had  previously  met  Capt.  Bent's 
company.  They  also  had  found  his  stray  mules  and  horses, 
and  now  had  them  in  company.  (On  leaving  them  afterwards 
at  Bent's  fort,  Capt.  B.'s  brother  generously  presented  the 
company.  With  two  of  the  mules  and  200  lbs.  of  flour  for  their 
trouble.)  The  same  day  the  whole  party  overtook  the  Santa 
Feans,  who  had  proceeded  but  6  miles  from  where  the  two 
hunters  separated  from  them.  All  encamped  that  night  at 
Pawnee  fork.  The  Caw  Indians,  before  spoken  of,  had  killed 
62  buffaloes,  so  that  provisions  were  most  abundant ;  but  their 
mode  of  jerking  it  was  any  thing  but  cleanly,  and  none  of  Capt. 
Farnham's  party,  as  they  had  plenty  of  their  own,  partook  of 
it. 

20.  Both  companies  continued  on  together.  Capt.  Farn- 
ham's hunters  killed  another  buffalo,  and  while  stopping  to 
jerk  the  meat,  some  Caw  Indians  came  up,  to  whom  they  sold 
a  few  articles  for  money,  of  which  they  seemed  to  have  plenty. 
The  price  of  a  common  butcher  knife,  for  which  the  company 
paid  25  cents  at  Independence,  was  out  here  $1.50.  Other  ar- 
ticles were  in  proportion. 

21.  A  most  dreadful  accident  occurred  this  morning.  While 
the  tent  was  being  struck,  and  the  compan}'  preparing  to  de- 
part, Mr.  Smith,  in  drawing  his  gun  towards  him,  the  muzzle 
forward,  permitted  the  trigger  to  come  in  contact  with  some 
protuberance  on  his  saddle,  when  it  went  off  immediately  in  the 
direction  of  the  bottom  of  the  chest.  The  ball  struck  one  of 
his  waistband  buttons  and  glanced  to  the  left,  penetrating  the 
flesh  and  severing  two  of  his  ribs.  He  was  caught,  while  in 
the  act  of  falling,  by  Mr.  Oakley,  who,  on  removing  his  his 
clothing,  found  the  flesh  to  be  dreadfully  lacerated  and  the 
ball  lodged  near  the  spine.     The  Santa  Fe  company,  in  which 

10 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


was  a  surgeon, — Dr.  Walworth,  one  of  the  owners, — was  about 
five  miles  ahead,  and  thither  Mr.  O.  hastened  for  assistance. 
Dr.  W.  returned  in  his  carry-all  with  a  bed,  and  after  extract- 
ing the  ball  and  dressing  the  wound,  put  Smith  in  the  carriage, 
in  which  he  was  taken  onward  with  comparative  comfort. — 
This  disaster  detained  the  company  till  noon,  and  to  make  up 
for  the  detention  they  travelled  till  midnight  without  being 
able  to  overtake  the  Santa  Feans.  At  night  their  progress  was 
greatly  retarded  by  the  herds  of  buffalo  which  lined  the  road 
and  covered  the  plain.  They  were  as  thick  as  sheep  were  ever 
seen  in  a  field,  and  moved  not  until  the  caravan  was  within  ten 
feet  of  them.  They  would  then  rise  and  flee  at  random,  greatly 
affrighted,  and  snorting  and  bellowing  to  the  equal  alarm  of 
the  horses  and  mules.  Supposing,  from  their  not  overtaking 
the  advance  company,  that  they  had  mistaken  the  road,  the 
party  resolved,  at  the  hour  above  mentioned,  to  encamp. 

22.  At  daylight  they  discovered  that  they  had  during  the 
night  taken  a  wrong  road,  and  by  turning  off  in  the  proper 
direction  soon  came  in  sight  of  and  joined  the  advance  party. 
To-day,  for  the  first  time,  they  used  the  dung  of  the  buffalo 
for  fuel,  and  found  it  to  bum  like  tinder.  The  plains  were 
covered  with  these  animals  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and 
they  appeared  to  be  as  countless  as  the  stars  for  multitude. 
The  noise  proceeding  from  them  was  unremitting,  and  more 
nearly  resembled  the  low  growl  of  a  lion  in  a  cage  than  any 
thing  else  it  could  be  compared  to.  They  appeared  not  to 
be  sensible  of  the  distant  approach  of  the  travellers  by  the  usu- 
al sense  of  seeing,  but  seemed  only  governed  by  that  of  smelling. 
If  the  traveller  had  *'the  wind  of  them,"  as  it  is  termed,  he 
might  approach  within  30  yards,  but  from  an  opposite  direc- 
tion a  near  approach  was  impossible.  For  the  two  succeeding 
days  nothing  of  interest  occurred. 

25.  Another  tremendous  storm  to-night.  The  wind  blew 
a  hurricane,  breaking  the  tent  poles  in  two,  and  prostrating 

11 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


every  thing  before  it.  The  travellers  were  consequently 
drenched. 

26.  The  clothes  of  every  man  were  saturated  with  water, 
yet  the  two  companies  set  off,  and  soon  reached  the  Arkansas 
river,  40  miles  below  the  Santa  Fe  crossings. 

28.  Reached  the  crossings  this  afternoon.  The  distance 
is  computed  to  be  450  miles  from  Independence,  and  one  month 
had  just  been  consumed  in  the  journey.  Here  it  became  nec- 
essary that  the  two  companies  should  separate,  the  larger  to 
continue  the  plain  beaten  road  to  Mexico — the  other  to  pene- 
trate the  trackless  wilderness  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
in  view  of  the  latter  prospect,  three  of  the  company  became 
discouraged  and  determined  to  join  the  Santa  Fe  party.  They 
were  Q.  A.  Jordan,  Chauncey  Wood,  and  young  Pritchard.  The 
others  maintained  stout  hearts,  and  responded  to  the  motto  of 
their  leader  'Oregon  or  the  Grave.'  Thus  far,  since  his  dread- 
ful accident.  Smith  had  been  brought  on  in  the  carryall ;  but  as 
he  was  now  to  part  with  this,  it  became  necessary  to  provide 
other  means  for  his  conveyance.  At  first  a  litter  was  con- 
structed and  placed  upon  two  mules ;  but  as  it  was  not  properly 
made,  it  could  not  be  used.  Other  modes  were  resorted  to,  with 
equal  ill  success ;  and  as  a  last  resource  he  was  compelled  to 
be  placed  upon  his  horse,  and  thus  pursue  the  journey.  Every 
step  of  the  animal  seemed  to  rend  his  vitals,  yet  he  bore  it  with 
manly  firmness.  Capt.  Famham  duly  commiserated  his  con- 
dition and  sought  by  every  means  in  his  power  to  render  liim 
more  comfortable.  Most  of  the  others  partook  of  his  spirit; 
but  some  there  were  who  looked  upon  the  almost  dying  man  as 
a  burden  which  they  would  gladl}^  get  rid  of,  and  strenuously 
urged  his  being  left  with  a  week's  provision  and  his  rifle,  either 
to  die,  as  the^'  beheved  he  must,  or  to  regain  liis  health  and 
seek  other  adventures.  For  the  honor  of  the  company  this 
proposition  was  advocated  by  three  only,  while  the  others  de- 
termined to  stand  by,  and,  if  need  be,  perish  with  him.  They 
waited  on  him  with  the  utmost  fidelity,  helping  him  every  few 


12 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


minutes  from  his  horse,  and  sitting  by  him  while  he  rested  on 
the  prairie,  and  as  their  companions  would  thus  get  some  miles 
in  advance  during  the  day,  they  would  by  late  travelling  gain 
the  camp  at  night.  BancrOft  UDf^ff 

The  next  prominent  point  after  leaving  the  Santa  Fe  cross- 
ings on  the  Arkansas  river,  is  Bent's  fort,  160  miles  further 
up  that  stream.  The  route  is  along  a  tolerably  distinct  wagon 
track,  and  they  reached  the  fort  on  the  5th  of  July,  six  days 
after  leaving  the  crossings.  Here  Smith  obtained  rest  and 
good  quarters,  and  in  a  week  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  re- 
sume the  journey  with  tolerable  convenience.  On  the  way,  in 
consequence  of  the  mutinous  and  diabolical  spirit  manifested 
by  a  few  of  the  company,  growing  out  of  the  deplorable  condi- 
tion of  Smith,  Captain  Famham  threw  up  the  command,  and 
thenceforward  abjured  all  control.  Thus  they  arrived  at  the 
fort  without  a  leader.  The  fort  is  an  enclosure  of  about  a  quar 
ter  of  an  acre,  with  several  rooms  attached  to  the  walls, 
capable  of  accommodating  100  men.  It  contains  1000  stand  of 
arms  and  one  brass  cannon,  the  force  being  intended  to  intimi- 
date the  surrounding  Indians  and  keep  the  hostile  in  check. 

The  Arkansas  river  is  about  as  wide  as  the  Missouri,  and 
the  water  of  the  same  color,  though  far  less  deep  and  rapid. 

After  spending  six  days  at  the  fort,  the  party  prepared 
to  leave,  when  it  appeared  that  the  spirit  of  disaffection,  to 
which  reference  has  been  made,  had  resulted  in  a  division  of 
the  company  into  two  parties.  One,  and  the  largest,  was  com- 
posed of  Shortess,  Moore,  Fletcher,  Fash,  Kilbum,  Yates,  Ho- 
mer, and  Cook  with  Shortess  for  their  leader.  The  two  first 
named  had  been  most  instrumental  in  the  inhumanity  prac- 
tised towards  Smith  and  their  separation  was  a  matter  of  re- 
joicing to  his  friends.  The  other  was  composed  of  Farnham, 
Oakley,  Smith,  Wood,  Blair,  Kelly  and  Osa,  with  Kelly  for 
their  leader  and  guide.  He  was  a  Kentuckian,  who  had  been 
in  the  Mountains  for  eleven  years,  and  who  here  joined  the 
party.     Blair  had  joined  at  the  Santa  Fe  crossings,  and  Osa 

13 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


was  a  Spaniard,  who  had  for  some  time  resided  at  the  fort  or 
in  the  neighborhood. 

Both  parties  left  the  fort  on  the  11th  of  July,  with  the 
design  of  reaching  the  Columbia  river, — Shortess's  for  Bent 
and  Sublette's  fort  on  the  south  fork  of  Platte  river,  220  miles 
distant,  by  a  plain  wagon  road, — and  Kelly's  for  Brown's  Hole 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a  route  estimated  to  be  200  miles 
nearer.  The  tent  was  left  at  Bent's,  and  such  a  division  made 
of  the  other  property  held  in  common  as  could  be  agreed  upon. 
This  history  will  detail  the  progress  of  Kelly's  party,  though 
it  will  be  seen  that  reference  is  had  in  the  sequel  to  that  of  the 
other. 

On  leaving  the  fort  the  party  took  only  a  small  quantity 
of  flour,  with  some  sugar  and  coffee,  depending,  as  before,  upon 
game  for  their  chief  subsistence.  The  face  of  the  country  was 
similar  to  that  before  passed  over,  being  nearly  destitute  of  tim- 
ber. At  night  each  man  would  lie  upon  the  ground  within  his 
buffalo  robe,  with  his  saddle  for  a  pillow,  and  the  heavens  for 
a  canopy.  In  a  little  while  the}^  got  accustomed  to  this  mode 
of  lodging,  and  suffered  no  inconvenience  from  the  loss  of  their 
tent.  For  nine  days  they  were  unable  to  procure  any  meat, 
having  in  this  time  seen  only  one  antelope  and  a  grisly  bear, 
which  were  too  wild  to  approach  within  shooting  distance  of. 
We  now  resume  the  diary. 

Jul}^  18.  At  10  o'cock  entered  the  Rocky  Mountains  by 
a  ravine,  and  were  soon  saluted  by  a  tremendous  hail  storm. 
The  heights  around  were  covered  with  snow,  and  the  atmos- 
phere indicated  a  degree  of  cold  about  equal  to  freezing.  For 
some  nights  past,  whenever  the  weather  was  clear  and  still,  there 
had  been  sharp  frosts. 

19.  No  game  seen  to-day,  and  provisions  entirely  ex- 
hausted. 

20.  Killed  a  buffalo  bull,  an  antelope,  and  a  mountain  hen, 
called  by  the  hunters  sage  cock.  ^Vhile  dressing  the  buffalo,  a 
multitude  of  others  came  round,  bellowing  and  pawing  as  if 

14 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


they  would  revenge  the  murder.  The  men  sprung  to  their 
horses  and  guns,  expecting  the  enraged  animals  would  tear 
them  to  pieces.  After  awhile,  however,  they  retreated.  The 
road  to-day  was  equally  rugged  with  that  of  the  two  last,  and 
the  Mountains  destitute  of  trees,  save  here  and  there  a  hem- 
lock, pine,  balsam  or  willow.  The  latter  were  generally  seen 
on  the  banks  of  the  streams. 

21.  Saw  several  fresh  tracks  in  the  sand,  which  their  leader 
and  guide  (Kelly)  pronounced  to  be  those  of  Indians.  As  these 
were  to  have  been  expected,  the  event  produced  no  other  change 
than  to  cause  the  party  to  keep  a  better  look-out.  Encamped 
to-night  in  a  beautiful  valley,  called  Bayou  Selard,  28  miles 
from  the  head  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte.  It  is  a  level 
prairie,  30  miles  long  and  3  wide,  and  was  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  flax,  which  every  year  springs  up  spontaneously. 

22.  Made  between  18  and  20  miles,  in  the  course  of  which 
they  crossed  a  branch  of  the  south  fork  of  Platte. 

23.  Crossed  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  stream  just 
mentioned  and  Grand  river,  the  first  western  water,  and  empty- 
ing into  the  Gulf  of  California.  They  were  consequently  upon 
the  back  hone  of  the  mestern  continent,  and  descending  towards 
the  Pacific  ocean. 

26.  One  of  the  horses  died  from  poison,  by  eating,  as  was 
believed,  wild  parsnips.  Found  to-day,  the  clearest  and  best 
water  they  had  ever  drank. 

28.  Killed  another  buffalo,  by  which  the  stock  of  meat, 
which  had  been  nearly  exhausted,  was  plentifully  supplied. 
Camped  to-night  on  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Grand  river. 

30.  Swam  the  main  branch  of  Grand  river,  a  stream  nearly 
as  large  as  the  Illinois,  and  very  rapid. 

31.  Very  rough  traveling  to-day,  through  and  over  fallen 
pine  timber.  Though  constant  diligence  was  used,  the  com- 
pany were  unable  to  overcome  more  than  four  miles. 

August  1.  Crossed  the  dividing  ridge  between  Grand  and 
little  Bear  rivers,  the  latter  emptying  into  Green  river,  one  of 

15 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


the  branches  of  the  Columbia.  Country  exceedingly  rough, 
approaching  to  precipitous. 

2.  Met  three  trappers  belonging  to  a  company  of  ten,  who 
had  with  them  their  Indian  wives  and  children.     Their  names 

were  Charles  Warfield, Burrows,  and Ward,  all 

from  St.  Louis.  Warfield  recognized  in  Smith  an  old  acquain- 
tance, whom  he  approached  with  "How  do  you  do,  Mr.  Carroll? 
I  am  very  glad  to  see  you." — Carroll,  alias  Smith,  took  him 
aside  for  a  few  moments,  and  Warfield  was  afterwards  careful 
to  call  him  Smith.  Burrows  and  Ward,  with  the  wife  of  one, 
continued  with  the  party  four  days,  during  which  nothing 
material  occurred,  except  that  the  party  killed  an  elk,  and  the 
trappers  in  one  night  caught  two  beaver. 

6.  Soon  after  the  parting  with  the  trappers  just  named, 
met  four  others  (French)  at  the  forks  of  Bear  river.  Killed 
to-day  two  grizzly  bears  for  sport,  the  flesh  being  too  fat  to 
eat.  Some  of  these  animals  are  of  enormous  weight,  reaching, 
as  the  hunters  say,  900  pounds.  One  killed  during  the  journey, 
a  year  old,  exceeded  600. 

7.  First  pleasant  day  since  entering  the  mountains.  For 
the  last  twenty-one,  it  had  either  rained,  hailed,  or  snowed  on 
each.  The  antelopes  seemed  inclined  to  improve  it,  and  were 
grazing  and  sporting  about  in  great  numbers.  Continued  down 
Bear  river,  along  its  untrodden  bank.  There  was  no  vestige  of 
footsteps,  except  here  and  there  a  buffalo  trail,  which  the  party 
would  follow  so  long  as  it  continued  in  the  proper  direction, 
but  wlien  it  diverged  therefrom  they  would  leave  it. 

9.  The  meat  was  entirely  exhausted.  Expecting  to  find 
buffalo  wherever  thej^  desired,  the  men  had  been  impro^^dent  in 
its  use,  and  now  began  to  entertain  fearful  forbodings  of  the 
future. 

13.  Arrival  at  Brown's  Hole,  the  men  nearly  famished,  hav- 
ing been  without  food  for  four  days.  This  is  a  trapper's  fort 
in  the  mountains,  on  the  east  branch  of  Green  river,  belonging 
to  Claig  & ,  and  affords  shelter  and  accommodation  for 

16 


OAKLrS  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


30  men  when  all  are  present.  All  were  now  out  on  trapping  ex- 
cursions but  two,  and  these  were  without  any  provisions  except 
dog  meat,  which  they  obtained  from  the  Indians.  Some  Indians 
passing  with  dogs  shortly  after,  a  bargain  was  struck  for  three 
or  four,  the  dogs  being  valued  at  $15  apiece,  and  the  articles 
given  for  them  as  follows ;  powder  $4  a  pint,  vermiUion  $1  a 
paper  of  1%  o^.,  tobacco  $5  a  pound,  and  lead  and  knives  at 
corresponding  prices.  They  found  the  dog  meat  excellent, 
much  better  than  our  domestic  beef  and  next  to  buffalo. 

Here  the  party  remained  for  six  days,  when,  as  they  were 
preparing  to  resume  their  journey,  a  company  of  five  persons 
appeared  in  sight,  travelling  from  the  west.  They  proved  to 
be  a  party  which  had  a  few  weeks  previous  escorted  to  Fort 
Hall,  in  the  Nez  Perces  or  Flat  Head  country,  about  300 
miles  further,  two  missionaries,  viz.  Rev.  Messrs.  Monger  and 
Griffeth  with  their  wives.     The  party  were  Paul  Richardson, 

(leader,)    Dr.    Wislizenus,    Eugene ,    Mr.    Koontz,    and 

Charles  Kline.  Capt.  Richardson  had  spent  two  years  in  the 
Oregon  country,  had  been  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia;  was 
well  acquainted  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  had  visited  the  Metho- 
dist Missionary  station  at  Wilhamet.  To  meet  and  converse 
with  him  was  therefore  a  matter  of  the  deepest  interest  to  our 
adventurers.  The  prosecution  of  the  journey  was  deferred, 
and  all  gathered  around  the  speaker  to  listen  to  his  relation. 
With  an  air  of  truth  that  demanded  implicit  confidence,  he  rep- 
resented the  country  as  undesirable  in  all  its  aspects.  In  the 
richest  portions,  about  Vancouver  and  Wilhamet,  not  more 
than  15  bushels  of  wheat  could  be  raised  to  the  acre.  The 
rainy  season  continued  five  months,  and  this  was  followed  by 
six  months  of  drought,  in  consequence  of  which,  neither  com 
nor  potatoes  ever  came  to  maturity.  The  ears  of  the  former 
sprouted  from  the  stalk  at  the  ground,  and  after  a  sickly 
growth  were  invariably  cut  off  by  the  frost,  and  the  latter  sel- 
dom exceeded  the  size  of  a  walnut.  In  point  of  health  the  pic- 
ture was   equally  gloomy,   the  Indians  labouring  under  fever 

17 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


and  ague  the  year  round.  These  representations  were  not  with- 
out their  effect  upon  the  minds  of  two  of  the  party,  Oakley  and 
Wood,  who  determined  to  abandon  the  enterprise  and  return. 

On  the  second  day  after  the  arrival  of  the  party  just  spoken 
of,  they  resumed  their  journey  homeward,  joined  by  Oakley 
and  Wood.  Capt.  Richardson,  who  knew  the  country  well,  pro- 
posed taking  a  route  different  from  that  pursued  by  Kelly,  viz. : 
by  the  way  of  Bent  &  Sublett's  fort,  on  the  south  fork  of  the 
Platte,  and  which  he  represented  to  be  several  day's  journey 
nearer. 

Leaving  Capt.  Kelly  with  Famham,  Smith,  Blair,  and  Osa, 
at  Brown's  Hole,  where  they  determined  to  remain  till  the  ar- 
rival of  some  party  bound  to  Oregon,  with  which  they  would 
unite,  the  homeward  bound  party  set  out  on  the  18th  of  August 
for  the  south  fork  of  Platte.  For  the  first  five  days  they  were 
without  food.  On  the  6th  day  they  killed  an  elk  and  subse- 
quently a  buffalo,  which  supplied  them  till  they  reached  the 
post  spoken  of.  On  their  way  they  met  with  a  remarkable  ad- 
venture which  had  nearly  cost  them  their  lives.  This  was  their 
coming  suddenly  upon  a  Sioux  village,  containing,  as  they 
were  informed,  1200  lodges ;  each  numbering  9  souls,  giving  a 
total  population  of  10,800.  Finding  it  impossible  to  retreat, 
they  yielded  themselves  prisoners,  and  were  detained  three  days. 
A  council  was  held  to  decide  whether  they  should  be  killed  or 
not;  and  during  its  progress,  the  young  Indians,  between  12 
and  15  years  old,  would  come  up  to  them,  and  drawing  their 
bows,  would  shoot  the  arrows  into  the  ground,  looking  with 
savage  grimaces  into  the  faces  of  the  captives,  and  crying  tab- 
babo  (white  man,)  signifying  thereby  that  their  fathers  were 
then  deciding  thus  to  shoot  them.  The  appearance  of  400 
friendly  Chians,  who  interjK)sed  in  their  favour,  broke  up  the 
council  and  saved  their  lives.  A  Chian  chief  immediately  came 
to  them  and  advised  their  instant  departure.  As  they  were 
saddling  their  horses  the  young  Sioux  would  come  around  them 
and  endeavor  to  prevent  it.     To  secure  their  guns  they  were 


18 


OAKLY'S  OREGON  EXPEDITION 


compelled  to  stand  firmly  upon  them,  while  three  or  four  of  the 
men  would  keep  off  the  Indians  while  another  was  securing  the 
saddle  on  the  animal.  The  old  Chians  at  length  came  to  their 
aid,  and  when  fairly  mounted,  they  pushed  on  with  all  the 
speed  in  their  power,  outstripping,  if  purused,  their  followers. 
No  other  adventure  worth  mentioning  occurred  on  the  way  to 
the  Platte,  which  they  reached  on  the  3d  of  September.  Here 
they  found  Shortess's  party,  where  they  had  been  42  days.  All 
their  horses  had  been  stolen  at  night  by  the  Indians  some  time 
previous,  while  out  on  a  buffalo  hunt,  and  they  were  unable  con- 
sequently to  continue  their  journey.  They  intended  remaining 
there  till  Mr.  Craig  went  out  to  Brown's  Hole,  and  would  there 
winter. 

After  remaining  here  three  days,  the  homeward  bound  party 
resumed  their  journey,  and  in  eight  more  reached  Bent's  fort 
on  the  Arkansas,  which  Oakley  and  Wood  had  left  two  months 
and  three  days  before.  Here  they  rested  two  days,  and  then 
retraced  their  steps  homeward  by  the  route  they  went  out,  ex- 
cept that  they  struck  the  Missouri  line  at  Westpoi-t,  12  miles 
west  of  Independence. 


Note.— It  will  be  seen  from  this  narrative  that  Capt.  Farnham  was  left 
at  Brown's  Hole,  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  18th  of  August.  Though 
abandoned  by  all  of  his  original  companions  but  one,  he  yet  maintained  the 
same  unyielding  iSrmness,  never  for  once  wavering  in  his  purpose  of  reaching 
"  OREGON  OR  THE  GRAVE ! " 


••The  original  from  which  this  is  reprinted  is  undated,  however  The 
Peoria  Register  was  published  under  this  name  only  during  the  years  1842-1845, 

19 


